Ecuador to Bolivia, a climbing trip.
This travel blog takes its name from a climb at Reiff, Scotland.

Here is a rough map of places I'll be visiting


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Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Week 2: Climbing High and Hard

San Juan bushcamp, moon rising.

San Juan
After our jungle interlude we got back to the business of climbing rocks. Gaining 3000m is slow going in the truck... the 250km drive to San Juan took nearly 8 hours! It was worth it when we finally reached the sunny gorge and indulged in a quality mix of sport/trad.

The "highway" to San Juan
San Juan Crag


Chimborazo
Having skipped the iconic Cotopaxi, Toby and I decided we couldn't let Ecuador's highest peak Chimborazo (6310m) pass us by. The extinct volcano is technically the point furthest from the centre of the Earth, and we were camped practically in its shadow.
Chimborazo

Alpine sacks and diamox packed we hitched up to the 4800m Carrel Hut in an Italian tour coach! After a short (but slow) walk up to 5000m, we reached the Whymper Hut with heads feeling only a little odd. We napped in the near empty refugio ready for a midnight departure. Long and unpleasant night short, our summit attempt was abandoned when I spewed my dinner onto the dorm floor. Lessons: 400m to 5000m in 3 days is rough. Diamox doesnt work.

Sunset from Chimborazo, 5000m


Paute
"Eat, Drink, Sleep, Climb. Repeat"
Four full days at "Ecuador's best sport crag". Plenty to go at across the grades, the superb climbing was interrupted only by beer/food/water runs into town, or when guarding the truck against the more "inquisitive" locals. By the end I'd done over 20 climbs, including my first clean 7a lead - chuffed!

Seb explaining the beta for the 7a
 Many of us made use of the (suspect) river water to wash hair, clothes and body after our extended bush camp. This was actually warmer than a lot of Ecuadorian showers...

Should probably have a photo of me...
Cuenca
In our first city since Quito, everyone has been catching up on showers, eating and internet. I've settled comfortably into the Hot Rock mentality. My home is now red and mobile, and Edinburgh life is a pretty strange and distant concept. Next proper stop is Cajamarca, 5 days away. The truck may be slow but its comfortable. Plenty space to move about, play cards, read, or pass the time with a bottle of Pilsner. We'll be travelling along the coast into Peru, which hopefully means some pacific beaches and maybe even surfing along the way.


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